T Oinos, Clos Stegasta Assyrtiko 2021

Wine Type: White

Grape(s): 100% Assyrtiko

Country: Greece

Region: Tinos Island, Cyclades

Organic: Yes

Vegan: No

ABV: 13.5%

Winemakers: Alexander Avatangelos and Gerard Margeon

Winemaking: T-OINOS is a visionary winery on the windswept island of Tinos, Greece, where ancient granite and volcanic schist soils meet a philosophy of uncompromising precision viticulture. Founded in 2002 by Alexander Avatangelos and Gerard Margeon, and with winemaker Jérôme Bougnaud on board (Clos Erasmus, Dominio del Bendito, Niepoort), T-OINOS represents a new benchmark for fine wine in the Cyclades, producing crystalline, terroir-driven expressions of indigenous varieties.

The estate’s vineyards, carved into steep granite terraces at altitudes between 400 and 460 meters, exert the utmost viticultural discipline to tame the rawness of the natural environment. Located in Falatados and Stegasta, on weathered granite and sand interspersed with volcanic and schist veins, these are some of the oldest soils in Europe. Exposed to the fierce Meltemi winds and extreme diurnal shifts, the vines experience natural yield limitation and remarkable concentration. The combination of high-altitude stress, deep mineral soils, and sea-borne microflora leads to wines that are naturally low-yielding, highly expressive, and age-worthy. This is high stakes mountain viticulture by the sea.

T-OINOS cultivates two red varieties - Mavrotragano and Avgoustiatis - and two whites - Assyrtiko and Malagousia - with a focus on micro-vinification by parcel. Each grape is matched precisely to soil, aspect, and elevation, with winemaking that honours varietal character through gravity-fed fermentations, neutral oak, and extended lees ageing. Mavrotragano, often misunderstood elsewhere, becomes a noble, finely structured red in the hands of Bougnaud, while Assyrtiko, planted on decomposed granite rather than Santorini lava, gains lift, salinity, and a nervy mineral spine that rivals top Chablis.

The winery is designed for precision and restraint: indigenous yeasts, cold soaking, long macerations, and judicious use of French oak foudres and Stockinger barrels form the core of T-OINOS’ approach. Fermentation and élevage are adapted to the energy of each parcel and vintage, with no fining or filtration. Annual production remains small - fewer than 30,000 bottles - with flagship cuvées like Clos Stegasta Assyrtiko, Mavrotragano, and the rare Aï produced only in exceptional vintages.

2021 was a mild winter with a high amount of rainfall. Budbreak commenced at the end of March later than usual. Flowering was set on spring, at the end of May with low amount of rainfall. Temperatures in May were elevated, as they were in June. July was quite warm with excessive heat peaks at the end of it. During August temperatures continued to be high. The 2021 vintage was warm overall and is therefore characterised by high levels of concentration. Harvest took place very early in the morning. Successive picking of the grapes of the same plot in Stegasta vineyard according to their maturity. Handpicked clusters placed in 20 Kg bins, were pressed in pneumatic press. Alcoholic fermentation with indigenous yeasts. Ageing on the lees for 4 months partly in stainless steel tanks, amphoras and barrels.

Tasting Notes: Review by Decanter Magazine's Klearhos Kanellakis (93 points): Intensely mineral, with aromas of passion fruit, pineapple jellies, lemon peel and green fruit. Ripe pink grapefruit and pomelo marry with spice and salt on the mid-palate. Viscous and layered, with considerable length.